> Get the books (haven't read either), but then beg/borrow/steal an
> account on a real cisco to play with.

If you've got a few bucks, you can pick up a Cisco 2501 on Ebay for ~$100.
 I was using one for awhile, it was nice to play with.  It's got an AUI
port for ethernet and 2 serial, makes a great T1 router as well as a good
practice router.  Right now there's a nice pair of 2501s and CSU/DSUs if
you really want to have some fun.

You can also play with zebra on linux, it's decent but not quite an IOS
replacement.

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